Arrival in Zubiri

Our day started at 6:30 with the sounds of boots passing our window.  It was still dark and Pilgrims were making their way down the road.   We got under way at 7 leaving our sweet 16th century hotel and joining what seemed to be throngs of pilgrims streaming towards Santiago.

   

   

Our walk began on a gravel path through a beech wood with our eyes adjusting to the dim light and our ears hearing the crunching of many boots and footsteps and the clacking of poles.  We were surprised by how quickly people found their walking pace and pretty soon there was so much distance between us that we couldn't hear anyone else.  Shortly we were on the road and entering the small village of Burguette where it looked like people were takin a Saturday sleep-in.  The geraniums in the window boxes and the shuttered homes were so pretty.   We found the Cafe Fronton which wasn't too crowded and enjoyed a hot chocolate and crossiant and were on our way again.

      

We passed by fields along the road with the sound of the ever present horse  bells floating on the wind.  Pretty soon the crescent moon was obscured by the rising sun over the mountains to our back.

We again entered the woods and spent most of the day's trek in the shade of beech and pine trees with an occasional walk through a field.  For a few miles, the trail was paved - sort of like a grey yellow-brick road - out in the middle of nowhere!  All along, the trail was bordered by wild flowers - mostly Queen Anne's lace, asters, black berries (not quite ripe), ferns, thistle (one that had a beautiful small blue butterfly on it) and other flowers I wish I knew the names of.  The two unusual things we saw were a huge (5 ins) ebony slug with a bright green tip of its tail and what looked like a huge low-to-the-ground dandelion spread out like a sun the size of a dinner plate.  Beautiful.

                                      

Again we chose to send our bags ahead because our walk today was 21K or 13 miles - a step up of 4 miles from yesterday.  We are still easing into this walk.  I am glad because although we weren't in blazing sun and it was very mild and breezy, it was a lot of downhill walking which is a bit treacherous.  Diana is considering new shoes when we reach Pamplona - her toes are getting crunched on the down hills.

For some reason today was harder than yesterday - I think it was the lack of inspiring scenery and the realization that there are many miles to travel and some of  it is just plain a slog.  I woke up with a sore throat and foggy head.  The chill I got at Orisson finally settled into a cold, so I was glad for my Angel Card.

Today I drew 'willingness' and for the first part of the walk, I focused on being willing to keep walking even though my body didn't feel like it.  At least my legs and feet were willing.  This meditation transformed into a willingness to accept whatever comes, not to plan, to try and orchestrate rendezvous with people we've met, and eventually my thoughts morphed into a willingness to accept myself, others and situations as they are.  I am glad I am willing to try new things (thanks to my parents) and I want to be more open to accepting divine providence.

I was very aware of my posture as I walked today, particularly up hill.  I †end †o lean into the climb and find it is so much better to put my shoulders back and stand up straight so my whole chest is open for my lungs to take in air.

We took a few short breaks and sat down for 15 or 20 minutes to eat our yogurt and left-over sandwiches (and chocolate!) for lunch and continued to follow the yellow arrows and scallop shell symbols marking the way. 

                                     

About 1:15 and just about when my hip and the left foot were starting to complain,the welcome sight of the red roofs of Zubiri appeared.  We crossed the Medieval bridge over the Rio Arga and were surprised to find our aubergue a few doors down.

We are in a room with six other people, who  are resting or journaling after showers and washing clothes.  The facilities are quite comfortable with hot showers!  I have a top bunk for the first time.  We each have a cabinet to put our things and fortunately, this provides me with a shelf close to my head.  We also each have a plug for electronics charging by our beds.  Strange at what feels like luxury! 

Stores will be closed tomorrow so we found bread, cheese, tuna, fruit, chocolate and chips to pack for lunch and snacks.  We went for a short walk to put our feet in the river -cold and soothing.

                                

        

We're just waiting for the Pilgrim's dinner at 7.  I think I could just go to sleep now, but I am hungry.