To Roncevalles

Today was a picture perfect day for one of the most challenging walks of the Camino.  Probably much to some of our roommates' displeasure, my alarm went off at 6:30 because breakfast was 7-7:30.  No one in the room stirred and I began to doubt myself, but proceeded to grope around in the dark to get dressed and packed.  I left at 5 past 7 ready to go and there still was no sign of life in some of the beds.  By 7:30 we did see everyone at breakfast.

We started up the road climbing up.  It was a cloudless day, probably unusual for the Pyrenees and the walk was not quite as steep as the day before.  Much of the trail followed the road with an occasional vehicle passing.  We could hear the cow bells on horses across the fields and from time to time, water far below.

We were surounded by open grazing land with clumps of sheep huddled together, both tame (with bells) and wild horses and a few white cows left to themselves.  The mountain views were spectacular and we could see farm houses dotting the landscape.  I am astounded that over the centuries this beautiful country has not been developed.  It is pristine with ferns covering the hills, many wild flowers and very few trees.

We followed the pilgrims who left before us up the road and watched as they disappeared around a corner and appeared somewhere else along a ridge showing us where we would soon be walking.  I found myself anticipating each curve with interest - what view would we have?, what lay around the bend?  It felt a little like our paths in life - some us keep going because we want to see what is next,  Today it was all delight.  One beautiful landscape after another.

Around one corner, we were surprised to find a van parked by the side of the road with an awning and table.  A couple of men were selling coffee, hot chocolate, bananas,  hard boiled eggs and muesli bars.  We stopped for hot chocolate and bought muesli bars to eat at another break.  We also got our "passports" stamped.

A little further along, we encountered men from Roncesvalles who stationed themselves where the Camino left the road and followed an off-road path.  They wanted to make sure pilgrims knew where to go and were giving out water and taking prayer requests for anyone we knew who suffered from addictions.  They will pray for them.  I guess they were retirees who volunteer for the local AA group.  It was a surprise and very touching.

As we followed the path, it led us upwards again and eventually through a beautiful wooded area where we found some wild blueberries.  I picked just one that left the sweetest taste in my mouth.  Although the walk was longer today, it wasn't as steep and challenging.  We had gentler ascents and some flatter areas in between climbs.  

Eventually we arrived at the France/Spain border which was fairly nondescript.  Not even a Welcome to Spain sign - but I guess we only have welcome signs between states on interstate highways.

                                    

At the highest point we stopped to enjoy the view of Roncesvalles, our destination for today and eat the ham and cheese sandwiches we picked up before we left this morning.  Another photo op!!

                                   

Roncesvalles in the distance and the trail leading down on the right.

From there, it was all downhill.  We followed a rocky path with no switchbacks leading pretty much straight down.  Thank you Nancy for lending me your hiking poles!  I was SO glad to have them.  All the way down, we noted that it was a great exercise in being present.  Placing our feet well was the most important thing.  II was also thanking my knees, feet and quads that were keeping me from falling forward.  Again, I am so glad we sent our packs along.  It would have been a very difficult day with them.

All the way down, we walked through forests.  At one point, it felt like we were in a cathedral with all the tall trees with stately trunks.  At another point, we passed ferns that were taller than me!  The tallest I've ever seen 

Diana and I walked together today mostly in companionable silence with comments about what we were seeing, or sharing random thoughts from time to time - mostly appreciating how incredibly lucky and blessed we are to be able to do this and to immerse ourselves in such natural beauty.  At one point I told her that the last two days have been worth the trip - I can't imagine what is coming up!

We found it so much pleasanter to walk where we could be silent.  We started avoiding people who were talking loudly, allowing them to pass so we could again have the quiet path to ourselves.

Besides the largest slug we've ever seen crossing the path, the most remarkable thing we came across was a big mushroom about 3" in diameter that looked like it had been spray painted gold - right on the side of the path.  I wish I knew the symbolism for mushrooms - I can only think about Alice in Wonderland.  It was remarkable.

                 

As we walked, I played a couple of songs I recorded of Jane Hulting and Rhetta Morgan singing.  It was so nice to have their voices joining us!

Before we knew it, we  heard a church bell chiming 1:15 and a few yards later came out of the woods to see an old monestary which is the Pilgrims hostel in Roncesvalles.  We were here!  We had left at 8:30 and had a few stops and Diana's pedometer said we walked 9.28  miles.  We were glad to stop.

Our packs were here, we checked in to the hotel, showered, did laundry and went to the cafe for drinks and to check email with the free wifi!

It is lovely to have the afternoons to rest and let our bodies recover.  I love this pace.  At one point during the walk today, my poor old hip started hurting and I asked for a rest stop.  Amazingly after a little time out, I was good to keep going.

The Pilgrim's meals are OK so far- we have soup, wine or water, and tonight each of us got a fish that looked and tasted like trout and french fries.  Pretty good.

                                        

                                                                      My place setting

Went to the Pilgrim's Mass after dinner for the beginning where they read all the countries of people walking the Camino in Roncesvalles today.  Very impressive.

My Angel Card today was 'simplicity' and this was a simple day.  The landscape was absolutely beautiful and seemed uncluttered.  Even the road had few signs, no guard rails or other visual clutter, my job for the day was simple:  walk, enjoy, soak in and smile and wish other Pilgrims 'Buen Camino'.  My prayers were filled with gratitude for my body, my community of people who have been joining me virtually on this walk and for this incredible opportunity.

Now it's time for bed with a little advil.  Last night was tough - I had to wear several layers to bed because of the mountain chill and the snorer who slept above me kept me awake quite a while.  Tonight we are in a hotel adjoining the hostel.  The sound of the bells on the horses across the street float through the open window.