Wednesday, September 4, 2013

Los Arcos

Dinner was spectacular last night - a wonderful vegetarian paella with salad and crudities. 8 of us from Australia, Canada, France, Spain and the US had a delightful feast.

Miguel and his lovely meal

Orion greeted us from his place in the sky as we departed our aubergue at 6:30 this morning.  Shortly after, we lost the trail in our dancing headlamps at an old church sitting on a bluff above Villatuerta where we stayed last night.  We were a sight retracing our steps looking for the trail in the olive grove around the church.  It was a good reminder not to hurry because we got to enjoy the red glow of the rising sun on the distant hills.

Today's walk was 15 miles to Los Arcos across miles of open fields and a number of vineyards. Because we got an early start and arrived by 1:30 we beat the heat of yesterday.



This was a longer walk in the heat so we decided to have our packs sent again.  This was a good choice with Diana's blisters.  I am happy to report no blisters, but my foot cramps after about 10 miles and needs a break that includes taking off my shoes and a little foot massage.  I am glad that we are not pushing ourselves too much - it is tiring to walk so far each day.  It is nice to find the frequent fountains with cold fresh water along the way.



It is often so good to have Diana as pace keeper, particularly up hills where she does better than I.  We planned breakfast in Estella (about 2 miles into the walk) since we didn't make it the night before, but were there too early so ate bread, cheese and chocolate on a bench just outside of town to get us started.  We stopped in a small town about half way to Los Arcos for cafe con leche, hot chocolate and freshly squeezed orange juice with a number of other pilgrims.

Resting Pilgrim

It was good to see that we were catching up with "the pack" - the regulars on the Camino for us.  It's fun to check-in and see how people are doing, where they stayed last night and if they have any problems.


Our lunch was by the side of the road in what little shade there was - avocado, chips, cookies and chocolate.  We need to do a little shopping for lunch tomorrow - slim pickins today!

Today, I got 'birth' as my angel card and that was a hard meditation.  I woke a couple of nights ago with the sense of something inside that wants to come out, but couldn't grasp it. I decided to let it gestate a bit.  We all have something inside that wants to be released or expressed and I think by nurturing ourselves through some regular practice, we will bloom or give birth to whatever it is.

After walking with my pack with the scallop shell gently jingling in my right ear yesterday, I missed it today.  The scallop shell is the main symbol of the Camino.  As a metaphor, the grooves in the shell, which come together at a single point, represent the various routes pilgrims traveled, eventually arriving at a single destination: the tomb of James in Santiago de Compostela.  The scallop shell also served practical purposes for pilgrims on the Camino.  The shell was the right size for gathering water to drink or for eating out of as a makeshift bowl.


I love this modernized version of the scallop shell that marks our path along the way.

Our New Zealand friends are staying at the same place as we are tonight - 6 of us including an Australian and Canadian have reservations for dinner and Mass following tonight.

5 comments:

  1. Hi Holly! I am so much enjoying reading your blog as you make your way across the Camino. I have thought about doing this sometime and your detailed descriptions are very helpful. Makes me want to do it sooner than later. Thanks for the great updates and photos.

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  2. I am having such trouble posting....hope you feel that I am with you every step of the way...:-)))))

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  3. You two are something....
    I am following along with the maps and book by John Brierly
    love traveling along with you.
    Want to share some words by Mary Harrington at her installation in 2004
    Every day look at the world with your wide and grateful eyes.
    Every day let something kill you with delight.
    Let go of all that is harsh and harmful every day.
    Remember each day as a god.
    Each day arrives wrapped in its particular mystery and intent.
    Be still and know the gods of your days.
    Every day chain yourself to the tree of life.
    Every day, however desperate, love one thing hard.
    Say to all with ears to hear, Thy life is a miracle every day.
    Never forget the world needs your precise gifts.
    Each day offer and bless, stand and love, surrender and praise.
    Live with all your might, love with all your heart, and may you go in peace.
    Blessed Be.
    And Holly, you will give birth at the exact right moment. You have all the tools and skills you need.
    May it be gentle and safe and simply beauty full.

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  4. Thank you, Bernadette, for your beautiful post. Something for everyone to think about.
    Thank you, Holly, for explaining about the scallop shell. I think I would miss its jungle-jangle, too. I love hearing about your snacks and meals - now I want hot chocolate but don't dare in the heat of an OK summer! So glad you sent on the packs, especially in the heat.

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  5. May the sun always be st your back as you travel from east to west.

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