Ah yes, an early morning - at 6:30 we were heading what seemed like straight up the mountain from Villafranka del Bierzo. In about 5 minutes we were very warm and starting to peel layers. It was quite a climb and shortly we leveled off and followed the ridge for a while. I think this walk was one of the best times of the day.
As we climbed, I realized that I didn't need my headlamp because the moon glow in the clear sky was enough to see. I loved it lighting the path before me and seeing the dappled moonlight shining through the trees on the path. My feet were finding the path easily and bigger rocks were showing in the light. I was thinking about all the people who came before AAA battery powered headlamps. I felt as if I were walking in a more primitive time and loved it. As we rose higher, we could see the lights from Villafranka and surrounding communities and even hear a church bell sounding out 7 AM.
The views and sunrise were spectacular! I think this was one of the beautiful walks we've had with all the mountains surrounding us.
Eventually the path leveled out and we were walking the ridge, each bend in the path bringing a new breathtaking view.
As we began to descend, we passed groves and groves of chestnut trees! Their fruit was bright green and covering the trees.
I have become very attuned to 'bar' signs. I know this might seem strange for this non-drinker, but here it is a promise of a possible seat, a bathroom and food and drink. Generally we find other pilgrims and exchange pleasantries and greetings.
The Camino has gotten quite crowded since Lyon, Astorga and Ponferrada. Many people do this part of the Camino because they can do it in two weeks. Many Europeans break their Camino into two week segments, completing it as they have vacation. There are a number of tours on the Camino as well. Leaving Ponferrada, we needed to make way for a gaggle of gabbing Germans. Although it seems like a lot of people in the albergues and bars/cafes, we still have plenty of quiet walking space.
As with anything that goes up, we had to come down from our wonderful aerie and as we picked our way over the rocks, there was a sign quoting Tom Petty: "Coming down is much harder." I don't think he meant walking down the Camino!
Our walk continued a little by the road and passed lovely fields with grazing cows. We then made our way up again following a gurgling mountain stream - it was a wonderful sound track for the walk.
The last two k were through the woods and up a very steep and rocky switch back path. Fortunately it was heavily shaded and we arrived in La Faba, a very small village with one albergue run by a German association.
We dragged ourselves into the courtyard and lined our things up after the others in anticipation of the albergue opening at 2 PM.
The albergue is operated by volunteers who spend 5 weeks attending to the pilgrims. It is a very special place and has been beautifully renovated with wooden floors, modern bathrooms and great stone steps. Next door is a lovely little church with real candles, flowers and chants playing through discreet speakers.
The courtyard had a little fountain that we put our feet in and enjoyed some fellowship in the evening.
One of the first things I noticed as we left the pilgrim's office in St. Jean Pied de Port was a sign with an emergency number on it - 112. I was comforted to know that there was emergency assistance if needed and have created a story in my mind that the reason that most of the ways are two lane so an emergency vehicle could get in. Today I saw the emergency van cruising and he was willing to pose for a photo. I also discovered that 112 is the European 911!
There have been some emergency issues since we've been on the trail and a couple of our Aussie friends were able to assist someone who couldn't walk by carrying her pack and helping her get to an albergue. There are a lot of Camino angels here. Diana and I saw an older man fall down in the heat and stayed with him until he was ready to continue - he wouldn't let us carry anything, but accepted water and our company.
My angel card was 'patience' and today was a day for patience - waiting when we were so hot and tired for a place to call our own for a night. As I was walking, I was thinking about where I can use a little more patience and it is usually with myself or people who exhibit traits that I don't like about myself. I am reminded that we/ I must continue to practice self love even when I am screwing up! A couple of the pilgrims and I talked about how important this is today.
Again, your photos are magnificent. I love the views and can imagine walking with you. I would also love walking in the darkness and being able to see the sun rise. You look so strong and vibrant! Interesting about the emergency vehicles. I liked hearing how people have given their time to either cook, open a hostel or just be available to help pilgrims. That feels like a pilgrimage all its own.
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